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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.